Baking

Brioche in Three Hours




Hello Bakers,

Yesterday, my demo - Brioche in Three Hours was cut short. My demo was part of the Women Chef's and Restaurateurs Conference that was held here in Los Angeles this weekend.
I was demoing with Chef Jack Mancino from Hudson River Valley Foie Gras and 45 minutes was not nearly long enough. His foie demo was amazing. Since brioche is perfect with foie gras - that was my contribution.
Well, time ran out and I could not finish my demo so I promised the attendees that my next blog post would be all about how to make brioche in three hours.
.
Usually, making brioche is a long process that involves bulk fermenting the dough in the refrigerator overnight. But before that the butter  is emulsified into the dough. This is fine and classic but it leaves a dough so soft that it has to be refrigerated overnight. It is next to impossible to shape without chilling.
A few years back when brioche hamburger buns were all the rage, the student cafe at the Art Institute often ran out - this is never good.  So I worked on changing the mixing method so that the buns could be made quickly and there would always be enough.
By using creaming method in the beginning, I was able to avoid adding the butter at the end.
Also, the dough could be shaped after a mere hour of bulk fermentation at room temperature.
The students mastered the technique quickly and the little cafe never ran out of buns.

Brioche can be shaped many ways. It can be shaped as an a tete if you have any a tete molds hanging around, as buns or as a loaf - loaves are often called "Nanterre". Larger loaves will take longer to proof and bake.

I hope I have aroused your curiosity, bakers, and that you will try this brioche. It's quick and easy - no gimmicks or rapid yeast - just the same ingredients but mixed differently.
This recipe belongs to my good friend and amazing bread baker, Michael Kalanty. If you have not purchased his first book "How to Bake Bread" please do so now. And his second book "How to Make More Bread" will be available soon. First book

Please try this brioche bakers and tell me what you think.
Also if you have questions, please ask, I am here to help.

Happy Baking!
Colette


Three Hour Brioche
A Baking with Colette Tutorial

Adapted from How to Bake Bread by Michael Kalanty
The ingredients in paranthesees yield a small batch.
SPONGE METHOD
9 (4.5) ounces water
1 ½ (3/4) ounces fresh yeast or ½ (1/4) ounce instant
12(6) ounces bread flour

1.    Combine well in a bowl – cover and let sit, covered, at room temperature for 45 minutes
Final Dough
11 ounces butter (5.5 ounces)
3(1.5) ounces of sugar
6 (3) eggs

1 # (pound) 8 ounces (12 ounces) bread flour
7/8 ounce of salt (22g) (11g)



                                                                                            mise en place
                                                                       

Demo Notes
1.   Dissolve the yeast in the water, add flour and mix until smooth.
2.   Let sit, covered, 45 minutes at room temperature.
                                                                              after 45 minutes
3.   In a mixer with the paddle attachment cream the butter and sugar until light and fluffy – 6 minutes. 
4.   Add the eggs 2 at a time – mix each addition in well before adding the next. It will look broken, that's ok.
     

                                                                     It looks broken, that's ok
5.   Add the sponge mixture – mix until smooth.
      
                                  Add yeast paste
6.   Remove the paddle and attach the dough hook add the flour and the salt mix on speed 1 until it achieves “clean up” stage.
      
7.   This takes about 4 minutes. Then mix for another 2 minutes on speed 2 until smooth.
8.   Bulk ferment the dough in a buttered bowl, covered, for 1 hour until dough has doubled in size.
      
9.   Degas and shape as desired. Dough can also be overnight fermented.
     
                          two ounce portions
           Proofing in XL Ziploc bags with hot water
10.                Proof, egg wash, bake at 350 until golden brown, has an internal temperature of 205-210 and feels light.  If the brioche feels heavy return it to the oven for 5-7 minutes. The oven temperature can be reduced 25 degrees so that the brioche do not get too dark.
      Brioche freezes well.
                                                                                             So delicious 












St. Patrick's Day Irish Soda Bread-Louise's Recipe





Hello Bakers.


    Thursday is Saint Patrick's Day. That means corned beef and cabbage, green beer (maybe)
and Irish Soda Bread.
For years,  wherever I was working I would start to make my usual Irish Soda Bread a week before Saint Patrick's Day. It was always popular and a great way to tease the holiday.
It's a perfectly good Irish American soda bread recipe. In fact it is delicious. I hear your question, gentle reader, the soda bread we make here in the states is often sweeter then the soda bread made in Ireland.
    Recently one of my colleagues at Sur La Table, Louise, gave me her soda bread recipe. In fact, she gave me a packet of her recipes. I was thrilled.
Louise is a natural and talented baker and she held pastry chef and baking positions in several Los Angeles tea rooms and bakeries.
For ten years she was the pastry chef at Chado Tea Room. Now she works with us at Sur La Table and helps prep out recipes before class . She doesn't mind when I pepper her with questions. She is my link to a Los Angeles I wasn't here to bake or cook in. We are always so happy when she is with us in the kitchen at SLT, Farmer's Market.
     Now, here is where we come to the little did they know part....Louise, now retired and living quietly, had been in the past, a frequent contributor to many magazines and newspapers. Her recipes were everywhere.
Now back then in order for your recipe to printed and for you to be sought out to write recipes for Sunset Magazine and the Los Angeles Times you had to know what you were doing.
Magazines and newspapers had test kitchens staffed with expert bakers and cooks. Recipes were tested an average of three times before they went in to print. 
This is a huge contrast to today where very little testing is done. And recipes are vetted by reviews more then anything else.
     For this blog post we are returning to an earlier time - when you could cut a recipe out of a magazine and confidently make whatever it was without wasting time trolling through reviews.
   When I was a young cook, Thursday was food section day. That was always exciting.
I was clipping recipes out of the Chicago Tribune food pages at 12. The pink notebook that I glued my recipes into is still on the bookshelf.
The only time a recipe from a magazine or newspaper didn't work was when I screwed it up. 
And yes, I remember every time I did.

    In honor of Louise and Saint Patrick's Day, I encourage you to make this delicious Irish Soda Bread recipe.
I modernized it just a bit - the ingredients are by weight and yes, bakers percents. 

 Let me know what you are baking for Saint Patrick's Day, I would love to hear from you.
Happy Saint Patrick's Day.
Stay safe and of course,
Happy Baking!

Irish Soda Bread:
Louise's original recipe was published by Sunset magazine in March of 1992.
Serves 10-12

Equipment
Stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment or a large mixing bowl
Spatula or wooden spoon
10" oven proof skillet, fry pan - cast iron, greased
or a 10" cake pan, grease and line the bottom with a circle of parchment paper.
bowl for soaking raisins
strainer

Ingredients:
1 1/2 cups (6 ounces) (170g) currants, dark or golden raisins
1 tea bag (black tea, preferably Irish breakfast)
Boiling water to cover raisins

3 cups (13.5 ounces) (383g) Unbleached all purpose flour (I used King Arthur) (100%)
1/2 cup sugar (3.5 ounces) (99g) Granulated sugar (26%)
1 Tablespoon Baking powder
1 teaspoon Baking soda
1/4 teaspoon salt

2 Eggs (3.4 ounces) (96g) (27%)
1 1/2 cup (12 ounces) (340g) Buttermilk (96%) ***if you don't have buttermilk combine 11 1/2 ounces milk with 1 Tablespoon lemon juice or apple cider vinegar
3 Tablespoons Melted butter (1.5 ounces) (43g) (11%)
1 teaspoon vanilla



Oven: 350 degrees

1. Cover currants or raisins with boiling water, add teabag to bowl and submerge.
Let sit for 5 minutes and then strain out the tea. Blot raisins dry with a paper towel.
2. Sift together the flour, baking powder, baking soda and salt. Place in mixer bowl or large bowl.
3. In a separate bowl combine the eggs, buttermilk, melted butter and vanilla.

4. Add the wet to the dry ingredients and stir until evenly moistened.
By hand this will take about 20 strokes.

If using the mixer, mix on low speed about 1 1/2 minutes.
The mixture will look quite wet - that's ok.


5. Place in prepared pan. Smooth surface with bowl scraper. Brush with extra buttermilk
and sprinkle with granulated sugar.
6. Using a serrated knife, score the surface of the loaf with an "X".

7. Bake at 350 degrees.
8. Start checking in 45 minutes. Irish soda bread is done when a cake tester or skewer inserted in the center comes out clean.
Leftover Irish soda bread will keep a day or two, well wrapped, at room temperature or frozen up to one month.







Paul Hollywood's Ciabatta with Folds and Baker's Percentages



Hello Bakers,


My guess is that many of you are fans of the Great British Baking Show. I cannot get enough of this show.
I find it so inspiring. I want to do the challenges myself.
Now I love, love to bake and just, watching that show just wants me to bake more.
It goes further then that - my dream job would be to host or judge on that show. How much fun would that be?
There was a bread episode in Season Five that involved ciabatta. The contestants had to make Paul Hollywood's Ciabatta.
Now you can tell Paul is one of those bread guys - he loves bread and making bread and he has been doing it for ages. When he talks about baking bread in Greece and throughout Europe - I start to sweat and gentle reader, I never sweat.
Why do I sweat?  Because I imagine that baking bread in Greece and wherever else Paul traveled and baked was an amazing experience. That's kind of experience and learning that goes right into your bones and stays forever.
I never had the chance to bake like that in Europe but I did in the States and I can you it is heady stuff.
Back to earth and the kitchen.
Ciabatta is a bread that originally comes from the Lake Como region of Italy. There are regional breads in every area of Italy and it would take years to master them all.
Ciabatta is hydrated, really hydrated this recipe is 80% hydration which means hand shaping is next to impossible. It is coaxed more then shaped. It takes water, extra flour and a bowl scraper to get this dough were it needs to go and you have to be gentle.
The shape is that of a medieval slipper and that is also where the name comes from.
Ciabatta is another word for slipper - not modern slippers - more Merchant of Venice slippers - but Como not Venice.
The first time I made Paul Hollywood's Ciabatta, Daniel, my chef husband was not overly impressed.
The air bubbles, technically called "alevole" were not big enough and it was too flat.
Daniel is from that region of Italy and therefore takes a passionate view on Ciabatta.
Paul Hollywood's directions did not include folding the dough but I decided with the second batch to add three folds, thirty minutes apart. Since I was folding, I decreased the mixing time from 5-8 minutes to 3.
The results were amazing and Daniel pronounced it "very good". This is his highest praise.
When that is his comment about my baking or cooking, then I know I have done well.

I am putting this recipe baker's percentages. This will help you all with your baker's percentage practice.
There are also many versions of Paul Hollywood's ciabatta recipe on the internet. This is what happens when you are famous.But by having it baker's percentage you can make any size batch you like. It also employs the double hydration technique which is great for mixing a well hydrated dough.
I did added an additional 25g of water - just to get my crumb a little more open.
This recipe is authentic to modern day ciabatta.  In the early days when people were wearing medieval slippers, it probably had less salt since salt was heavily taxed at that time and a point of much contention.

For two good size ciabatta, I recommend you use 500g of flour. If you want one cut it in half, 250g.
Ciabatta freezes well and can be refreshed, once thawed, in a 350 degree oven for 5-7 minutes.
Happy Baking!
Colette

Ciabatta with Folds adapted from The Great British Baking Show and Paul Hollywood's original recipe.

Equipment
Stand mixer or dough whisk
Plastic bowl scraper
Medium bowl or small rectangle shaped plastic bin (tub)
 - brushed with olive oil.
Half sheet tray lined with parchment paper and dusted with flour
Spray bottle with water


Ingredients

500g Unbleached all purpose flour (100%)
10g Instant yeast (2%)
300g Water (water 1#) (60%)
40g Olive Oil (20%)
10g Salt (2%)
125g Water (water #2 )(25%)

Additional flour for dusting the top of the ciabatta
Additional water - helps with dough sticking.

1. In a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment combine the flour, yeast, water,
olive oil, salt mix on low speed for 45 seconds.
2. With the mixer running, add the second amount of water in a slow stream.
3. Increase the speed to medium (speed 4) and mix for 2 more minutes.

4. Using the bowl scraper, transfer the dough to the oiled bowl or a rectangle shaped plastic tub and cover. Set a timer for 30 minutes.

5 After 30 minutes uncover the dough and wet your finger (adding water is better then adding more flour) grasp the dough at the top of the bowl and stretch it out about six inches. and fold it over it self.
Rotate the bowl a quarter turn and stretch again. Continue with all four sides of the bowl. After the last fold, turn the dough over. The smooth side will be facing up. Cover.
By the way, there are some excellent plastic bowl covers made by Covermate. The plastic is BPA free and they can be reused. I find mine at BigLots but Amazon has them too.
Here is the link: http://www.amazon.com/Covermate-CB206-CoverMate-Stretch-to-Fit-Covers/dp/B004TIZ0CC They are great for yeast dough.

6. Set the timer for another 30 minutes. Repeat two more times.
7. After the last fold, cover the dough and let it sit for 20 minutes.
8. Using the bowl scraper, carefully loosen the sides of the dough and unmold the dough onto the prepared sheet tray.
9. If making the larger batch, dip the bowl scraper in flour and using a rocking motion cut the dough in two. Gently make space between the two pieces of dough. Dust each with flour.

10. Place the rack in the center of the oven. Preheat the oven to 425 degrees.
11. Let the oven preheat for 15 minutes.
12. Spray the ciabatta with a light mist of water and put it into the oven.
13. At 25 minutes, check for color and double pan.
14. Reduce oven temperature to 375 and bake for 12-15 more minutes. The internal temperature should be at 210 - slightly higher is ok and when picked up (with oven mitts or dry towel) the ciabatta should feel very light. If it feels heavy put it back in the oven for an additional 5-7 minutes.
If it is getting too dark, reduce the oven temperature. One of the most challenging things about ciabatta is baking out the excess moisture.







Hi Everyone, there is a mistake in the percentages for the olive oil - it should read 8% not 20%. Thanks to Mike for pointing that out. Because this is an older post - it is more complicated to edit then a newer one. Happy Baking! Colette

Bake Away the Winter Blues with Luscious Key Lime Pie



Hello Bakers,

There has been so much going on with filming the latest Craftsy class and finishing the macaron book
that this poor blog is sorely neglected.
But not anymore....
The year is young and there is so much baking to do.
We will start 2016 with a three part series on working with citrus fruit

This is the time of year when citrus is at it's best. Here in California the trees are heavy with fruit.
Let's start with Key Lime Pie. You know it - it's delicious hard to eat just one slice.
Key limes were transplanted, literally, to the Florida Keys by the Spanish in the 1500s.
They are Key West - every restaurant sells some variation of the Key lime pie.
What's a little ironic is that in 1926, a hurricane wiped out the key lime plantations in South Florida.
They were replanted with Persian limes, which were easier to pick and grow. Today, key lime plantations are grown closer to Miami.
In Key West, actual key limes have urban myth status. They are found in back yards and never leave the Keys....
Key limes are tricky to squeeze but it can be done. Key lime juice can also be purchased. The best brand is Nellie and Joe's. I would rather use fresh (non key lime juice and extra zest) the bottled key lime juice. But if you are too pressed for time to squeeze limes then that is an option.
In the early days, key lime pie wasn't baked.
During mixing there is a reaction between the condensed milk and the lime juice that causes the filling to thicken on it's own before baking.
Today, we know it is dangerous to consume raw eggs, so the pie is baked for 12-14 minutes until the eggs are cooked and the filling is set. Baking it is better because it helps the filling set up even firmer.
Traditionally, key lime pie was topped with meringue - those egg whites have to be used up after all.
But this version uses whipped cream as a topping. Any extra egg whites in my kitchen get turned into macarons.
One last bit of history, there are 38 states in the union that have an official state dessert and Key Lime Pie is Florida's.

Key lime pie is very quick to put together - Bakers you have to try this.
Let me know what you think.
Happy Baking!
Colette


Key Lime Pie
One 8”pie, about 8 servings
Equipment
2 8” pie pans - the disposable ones work best for shaping the crust
Whisk
2 medium bowls
Spatula
18”-20” (45 to 50cm) piping bag
Medium open star tip
Scissors to cut bag
Ingredients
Crust
5 ounces (142g) graham cracker crumbs
2 Tablespoons, 1 ounce, (28g) sugar
5 Tablespoons, 2 ½ ounces, (71g) butter, melted
Filling
Grated zest of one lime
½ cup, 4 ounces, 113g fresh squeezed key lime or regular lime juice
3 large egg yolks, 2.13ounces, (60g)
1 can sweetened condensed milk, 14 ounces, (397g)
Whipped Cream (Chantilly) Topping
1 cup, 8 ounces, 227g heavy cream
2 Tablespoons + 1 teaspoon, 1 ¼ ounces (40g) confectioner’s sugar, sifted
1 teaspoon vanilla extract or vanilla bean paste
  1. Preheat oven to 350 degrees.
  2. In a medium bowl mix graham cracker crumbs, sugar and butter. Mix well
  3. Press the graham cracker crumb mixture into one of the pie pans. It should cover
the bottom, sides and lip of the pan. Line shell with plastic wrap.

4. Carefully press the 2nd pan on top of the graham cracker crumb mixture. Push down hard 
so that the crust is flat and smooth against the first pan. 

Carefully remove the top pan.
    5.   Bake the crust for 7 minutes. The crust should be a light golden brown. Remove and set aside.
    6.   Prepare filling. In a medium bowl combine lime juice, lime zest, egg yolks and condensed milk.    Mix well.

    7. Pour filling into pie shell.

    8. Place in oven. Start checking at 14 minutes. The filling should jiggle slightly but not ripple.
If it jiggles then put it back in the oven for another 4-5 minutes. Check again. By now it should look set.
    9. Remove from the oven and cool on a rack. Let cool for a half hour then move to the refrigerator to completely cool.


A few hours before serving, make whipped cream (Chantilly) topping.
Mixing by hand:
1.      Make sure all the ingredients and the bowls are chilled.
2.      Whisk the cream, vigorously, until it is slightly thickened, about the consistency of yogurt..
3.      Add the sifted confectioner’s sugar and the vanilla.
4.      Continue to whip the cream until the cream is smooth but not grainy, about the consistency of shaving cream.
5.      Do not over-whip or the cream will become grainy and separate.
Mixing by Machine:
  1. In the bowl of a stand mixer with whisk attachment or using a hand held mixer,
whip the cream on medium speed until it is slightly thickened, about the consistency of  yogurt.
    2.  Stop the mixer and add the sifted confectioner’s sugar and the vanilla.
    3.  Increase speed to medium high and continue to whip until the cream is smooth but not grainy, about the consistency of shaving cream.
    4. Do not over whip or the cream will become grainy and separate.
Chantilly cream should be made and used a few hours before serving.
Finishing the pie...
Put the tip in the piping bag and fill with the cream. Pipe a pretty border around the edge of the pie.
The pie can be decorated 2-3 hours ahead of serving and refrigerated.
Store any leftovers in the refrigerator.

Key Lime Pie will keep in the refrigerator for 3-4 days.